A cavernous canteen on the northern edge of the city, dedicated almost entirely to plov — the rice, lamb, carrot, and onion pilaf that Uzbeks consider their national dish. Giant kazans line the front of the kitchen and the cooks pile your plate before you've finished pointing.
Get here by 1 PM. The plov runs out by mid-afternoon, the place closes, and that's it for the day. Add a horse sausage (kazy), some pickled vegetables, and green tea. The whole meal costs a couple of dollars. Easiest reached by taxi.