Scattered across the Kyzyl Kum desert and the Karakalpak Republic in western Uzbekistan, the qalas are ancient mud-brick fortresses that once served as citadels for the warlords and rulers of the Silk Road. There are hundreds of ruins out here, and very few tourists ever make the journey — which is precisely the appeal.
The most accessible qalas lie near the town of Buston in southeastern Karakalpakstan, about an hour north of Urgench. Toproq Qala is the best preserved, with detailed rooms and buildings still visible from a civilisation that thrived here some 1,500 years ago. Ayaz Qala, more remote but easier to spot from a distance, offers sweeping views across the barren desert — on a clear day you can pick out other fortresses on the horizon. Guldursun and Kyzyl Qala are also nearby and worth the detour if you have time.
These structures were built entirely of mud by hand and have withstood nearly two millennia of desert climate. Getting to them all in a single day is exhausting but rewarding. You will need a car and ideally a local driver — public transport does not reach these sites.