Papeete's nightlife is concentrated in the few blocks around the rue des Ecoles and the rue du Maréchal Foch, in the streets just back from the waterfront. Expect a Polynesian mix of expat-French bars, sailor bars, the city's small but visible mahu and rae rae transgender community, karaoke joints, and a couple of nightclubs that get going late.
The strip is fine for an early drink and a livelier night out than you'd expect of a place this size, but the rougher bars deeper down the rue des Ecoles can get unpleasant after midnight; stay in the better-lit places. The hotel bars west of the centre — Hilton, InterContinental — are the safe, expensive alternative and have the best cocktails. Hinano, the local lager, is competent and cheap.