Highlights

The lagoon. New Caledonia's lagoon is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the largest coral lagoons in the world. Snorkeling and diving here are exceptional — the water is clear, the reef healthy, and the marine life abundant. Black-tip reef sharks, sea turtles, Napoleon wrasse, dugongs, and humpback whales (June-September) are all possible encounters.

Ile des Pins. The "Isle of Pines" earns its reputation. The natural pool of Oro Bay, surrounded by towering pines and set in impossibly blue water, is one of the most photographed spots in the Pacific — and it deserves it. The island is small enough to explore by bike or on foot. See Ile des Pins.

The east coast drive. The road north from Noumea along the east coast, through Poindimie and up to Hienghene, passes through some of the most beautiful and least-visited scenery in the territory. The rock formations at Hienghene — the "Black Hen" (La Poule Noire) emerging from the bay — are extraordinary.

Ouvea. The long white beach on this atoll is considered one of the finest in the Pacific. The approach by plane, looking down on the gradients of blue and turquoise lagoon, is unforgettable. See Ouvea.

Tjibaou Cultural Centre, Noumea. Designed by Renzo Piano and opened in 1998, this is an architectural and cultural landmark. The curved wooden structures are inspired by traditional Kanak forms; the permanent and temporary exhibitions on Kanak art, history, and contemporary culture are excellent and often moving. Don't skip this.

The heart of the sea. A mangrove formation on the west coast, visible from a viewpoint above — the trees grow in a near-perfect heart shape. It has become a symbol of New Caledonia and is worth a stop if you're driving that coast.

Whale watching. From mid-June to mid-September, humpback whales enter the lagoon to give birth and nurse their calves. Several operators in Noumea and the islands offer boat trips. The experience of seeing a whale breach in the lagoon, with the reef visible below, is hard to match.