Christ Church, Russell

The simple weatherboard Christ Church on Robertson Street is the oldest surviving church in New Zealand, consecrated in 1836. Its plainness — a single nave with a steep shingled roof, a small belltower, no spire — is what gives it character. The graveyard around it is a roll-call of bay history: missionaries, whalers, Maori chiefs, and casualties of the 1845 fighting all lie together under the old trees.

The interior is small and worth a few minutes. Look for the bullet holes in the walls, the carved Maori panels installed in the 20th century, and the brass plaque to Darwin's donation. The church is still in use; Sunday services are held at 9 am. There is no entry fee but a donation tin near the door supports ongoing conservation work.

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A story
Charles Darwin contributed to the building fund when HMS Beagle called at the Bay of Islands in December 1835. The wooden walls still carry musket-ball holes from the 1845 Battle of Kororareka, when Hone Heke's forces sacked Russell and the church survived only because both sides agreed it should be spared.

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