Waitangi Treaty Grounds

The Waitangi Treaty Grounds, across the bay from Paihia, are the single most important historical site in New Zealand. The treaty between Maori chiefs and the British Crown was signed here in 1840, marking the formal beginning of New Zealand as a nation and the start of nearly two centuries of dispute over what exactly was promised on each side.

A visit takes a good half-day. The Treaty House — the white colonial home of the first British Resident, James Busby — has been restored and contains period furniture and original documents. Te Whare Runanga is a beautifully carved Maori meeting house representing all iwi. Ngatokimatawhaorua, one of the world's largest war canoes at 35 metres, sits in a purpose-built shelter and is launched once a year on Waitangi Day. The two museums on site, Te Kongahu and Te Rau Aroha, cover the treaty itself and the contribution of Maori to New Zealand's military history. Cultural performances, including a powerful haka, are scheduled through the day.

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A story
On 6 February 1840, more than 40 Maori chiefs signed the founding document of modern New Zealand on the lawn in front of the Treaty House. The Maori-language and English-language versions disagreed on what was being signed away — sovereignty in English, governance in te reo — and the consequences of that translation gap are still being argued in court today.

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