The Bay of Islands is one of New Zealand's most popular holiday destinations — a subtropical scatter of 144 islands off Northland's east coast, about three hours' drive north of Auckland. The water is warm by New Zealand standards, the scenery is spectacular, and the bay's sheltered harbours have drawn visitors since Captain Cook first anchored here in 1769.
The main activities are on the water: dolphin watching, sailing, kayaking, diving, and big-game fishing (the bay is famous for marlin and kingfish). The Hole in the Rock at Cape Brett is a classic boat-trip destination. On land, the Waitangi Treaty Grounds — where the treaty between Maori chiefs and the British Crown was signed in 1840 — are the most historically significant site in the country.
The twin towns of Paihia and Russell are the main bases. Paihia is the busier of the two, with hostels, restaurants, and tour operators; Russell, reached by a short ferry crossing, is quieter and more charming, with colonial-era buildings and waterfront dining. Kerikeri to the north is known for its orchards and the oldest stone building in the country.
Beyond Paihia, the inner bay's larger islands — Urupukapuka, Moturua and Motuarohia — make for good day stops with walking tracks, swimming bays and pest-free bird sanctuaries. The serious tramping option is the two-day Cape Brett Track to the lighthouse at the eastern point of the bay.