The Bay of Islands is a place to spend most of your time on the water. Boat tours head out daily from Paihia to the Hole in the Rock at Cape Brett, weave between the 144 islands, and stop for snorkelling or a dolphin swim. On shore, the historic settlements at Waitangi, Russell and Kerikeri tell the story of New Zealand's founding decades. Allow at least three days to do the bay justice — one for boats, one for history, one for the beaches.