Armenian food is hearty, flavourful, and deeply tied to the seasons and the land. It shares DNA with other Caucasian and Middle Eastern cuisines but has its own distinct character.
The essentials
Lavash — the thin flatbread baked in a tonir (underground clay oven) — appears at almost every meal and is listed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Tear off a piece and use it to scoop up everything else. Khorovats is the national barbecue: meat (usually pork, sometimes lamb or chicken) grilled over coals, often eaten outdoors at long tables. Any Armenian gathering of significance involves khorovats.
Dolma (stuffed grape leaves or vegetables) is ubiquitous in summer. Manti — tiny baked meat dumplings, served with broth and garlicky yogurt — is one of the most satisfying dishes in the cuisine. Ghapama is a festive pumpkin stuffed with rice, nuts, and dried fruit, served at Thanksgiving-style celebrations.
Fresh herbs, walnuts, and pomegranate appear constantly. In spring, herb-stuffed flatbreads called zhingyalov hats are sold on the street in Yerevan.
Drinking
Armenia has been making wine for at least 6,000 years — the Areni-1 cave in Vayots Dzor contained the world's oldest known winery, dating to around 4000 BC. The indigenous Areni grape makes the most interesting local wines; the Areni village around an hour's drive from Yerevan has several small wineries. The annual Areni Wine Festival (first weekend of October) is worth planning around.
Armenian brandy (cognac) is world-famous — Winston Churchill reportedly had 400 bottles delivered to Yalta. The Ararat brand is the most recognised. Cheaper domestic brands are perfectly drinkable. Oghi, a fruit vodka made from apricots, mulberries, or cornelian cherry, is the spirit you'll be offered at every rural table.
Pomegranate wine and mulberry wine are popular and worth trying. The local beer (Kilikia is the main brand) is decent. Armenian coffee is served strong and without milk, in the Caucasian/Turkish style.
Where to eat
Yerevan has a wide range of restaurants, from traditional Armenian to modern Caucasian to international. Quality is high and prices are reasonable by European standards. Outside the capital, options narrow quickly. In smaller towns, look for khinkali (Georgian dumplings, everywhere near the northern border) and simple grilled meat. Guesthouses often serve excellent home cooking — ask in advance.
Markets (especially Yerevan's GUM market) are good for picking up lavash, fresh produce, dried fruit, nuts, and local preserves.