Meghri is small and most of what you came for can be done in a long afternoon. The three Armenian churches in the upper town, a ramble through the narrow alleys of the old quarter, the ruined fortress on the hillside, and — if you have time — a short drive out into the surrounding desert mountains. The atmosphere here is the main attraction: sun-baked stone, the call to prayer carrying across the river from the Iranian side, the smell of orchards.