Grinzing is the most famous of Vienna's Heuriger villages — the wine-tavern settlements scattered through the vineyard hills on the city's northern edge. Beethoven came here in the early 19th century, hoping the cleaner air would help his deafness; the locals are still proud of it. The village retains its low whitewashed houses, walled gardens, and the iron 'Buschen' wreath above the door that traditionally signals a heuriger is open.
The wine is local — Wiener Gemischter Satz, a field-blend white made from grapes grown within the city limits — and is served with cold cuts and pickles in long shared dining rooms. Some of the bigger places (Mayer am Pfarrplatz, where Beethoven lived; Werner Welser) are touristy but pleasant; for something quieter, walk further up the hill to Sirbu or Wieninger. Tram 38 to Grinzing.