Khankendi (Stepanakert)

Karabakh city in a mountain valley, known as Stepanakert during decades of Armenian administration.

Khankendi — known as Stepanakert during the period of Armenian administration — is the largest city in the Karabakh region, situated in a valley at around 850 metres. It served as the capital of the self-declared Republic of Artsakh from 1991 until Azerbaijan reasserted full control in September 2023, when the Armenian population departed almost entirely within days of the Azerbaijani offensive.

The city is now under Azerbaijani administration and undergoing reconstruction. The name Khankendi (meaning "Khan's village") is the Azerbaijani form; Stepanakert was the Soviet-era name given in honour of a Bolshevik official. Both names appear in different contexts and both are historically legitimate.

For travellers, Khankendi is currently accessible but the visit requires registration with Azerbaijani authorities. The city itself is a Soviet-era planned town with wide boulevards. The famous sculpture known as "We Are Our Mountains" (Tatik-Papik, or "Grandmother and Grandfather") — a pair of stone figures that became a symbol of Armenian Karabakh — stands on a hill outside the city; its status under Azerbaijani administration is subject to ongoing political discussion. The Artsakh State Museum and the Holy Mother of God Cathedral are the other notable landmarks from the Artsakh period.

Guide

Getting There

Registration required: Access to Khankendi (Stepanakert) and the Nagorno-Karabakh region requires prior registration with Azerbaijani authorities. Travellers should check current entry requirements well in advance, as procedures have been evolving since the 2023 offensive.

By road: The main approach is via the Lachin corridor from Azerbaijan proper, now under full Azerbaijani control. The drive from Baku takes around 5–6 hours through Goris or via the new highway infrastructure.

By air: There is no commercial airport in or near Khankendi for civilian traffic. The nearest international airport is Heydar Aliyev International Airport in Baku, from which ground transport is the practical option.

Conditions on the ground change; verify current access rules through official Azerbaijani sources or your country's embassy before travelling.