Belgian food is one of the country's most underrated pleasures. The French get the credit for fine cuisine; the Belgians quietly eat very well indeed.
Fries — Belgian fries are the original and, most Belgians will tell you, the best. They're fried twice (once to cook through, once to crisp up) and served with mayonnaise, not ketchup. The frituur or frietkot — the fries stand — is a national institution. Brussels has Maison Antoine in Place Jourdan, which has a justified reputation as the best in the capital.
Mussels (moules-frites) — The national dish. Mussels steamed with white wine, celery, and onions, served with a large portion of fries. Best in autumn when the mussels are at their finest. Available everywhere, but the quality varies considerably.
Waffles — Two types, and they're not the same thing. The Brussels waffle is light and rectangular, served with toppings (strawberries, cream, chocolate). The Liège waffle is denser, sweeter, cooked on a press with pearl sugar that caramelizes in the heat — it needs nothing added. The Liège waffle, eaten warm from a street stall, is the better of the two.
Carbonnade flamande — Beef stewed slowly in dark Belgian beer with onions and mustard. Rich and warming, common in Flemish brasseries.
Stoemp — A Brussels working-class dish of mashed potato mixed with vegetables (leek, carrots, spinach), usually served with sausage or bacon. Simple and satisfying.
Chocolate — Belgium produces some of the world's finest chocolate, and the best is sold by independent chocolatiers rather than the souvenir shops near tourist sites. Look for pralines — chocolate shells filled with ganache, cream, or marzipan — and buy from shops where they're made fresh. Neuhaus (who invented the praline in 1912), Pierre Marcolini, and Wittamer are reliable names in Brussels.
Beer — See Highlights for an overview. In practical terms: order by name rather than asking for "a beer." Ask what's on tap and what's recommended. Most cafes have a beer menu; study it.
Cheese — Less celebrated than French cheese, but Belgian farmhouse cheeses are worth seeking out. Herve (pungent, washed-rind, from the area east of Liege) is the most distinctive.
A note on eating out: Belgian restaurants tend to be solid and generous rather than fashionable. Brasseries serve traditional dishes at reasonable prices. The Michelin guide lists more starred restaurants per capita in Belgium than almost anywhere else in the world — for fine dining, Brussels, Bruges, and Antwerp all have excellent options.