Vladslo German Cemetery is outside Ypres, but it belongs to any serious exploration of the First World War landscape of Flanders. The cemetery is quiet and dark-toned, with flat grave markers set in grass rather than the white headstones familiar from Commonwealth cemeteries.
Its emotional centre is Käthe Kollwitz's sculpture group, The Grieving Parents, made after the death of her son Peter, who is buried here. The work is restrained, devastating, and worth the detour for travellers trying to understand the war through more than battlefield maps and casualty numbers.