Vis is shaped like a long ridge running east-west, with Vis town on the eastern bay, Komiža on the western one, and a single road over the spine in between. Most of what's worth doing is a boat trip: the Blue Cave on Biševo, the deserted military tunnels around Stončica, the swim-only beach at Stiniva. Inland, climb Mount Hum for the view across half the central Dalmatian islands and visit a winery — Vugava and Plavac Mali grow nowhere else in quite this way. Vis is small enough to cover in three or four days; many people stay a week and don't run out of things to do.