Bakken — officially Dyrehavsbakken — holds a genuine record: it has been operating continuously since 1583, making it the oldest amusement park on earth. It sits at the southern edge of Dyrehaven (the Deer Park), accessible by a short walk through beech forest from Klampenborg S-tog station — an entrance that feels entirely appropriate for a place this old.
Unlike its Copenhagen competitor Tivoli, Bakken does not prettify itself. It is scruffy, cheerful, and cheap, with 33 rides, open-air beer halls, and a dozen food stalls. The roller coasters are old-fashioned and rattling; the whole place smells of fried food and woodsmoke. Children love it without reservation; adults who arrive expecting Tivoli's elegance will be surprised in the other direction. The admission is free — you only pay per ride.
Bakken opens in late March and closes in late August. On Mardi Gras, the park opens with a traditional procession of motorcyclists riding in costume from Copenhagen through the deer park — one of the more peculiar Danish springtime rituals.