Lyon is famously one of the best places to eat in France, and the food here divides neatly into two worlds. At one end, the bouchons lyonnais — small, boisterous, red-checked-tablecloth bistros serving traditional Lyonnais cooking: salade lyonnaise with frisée, lardons and poached egg, quenelles de brochet in sauce Nantua, tablier de sapeur (breaded tripe), andouillette, and praline tart for dessert. Look for the "authentique bouchon lyonnais" certification sticker. At the other end, Lyon is the historic heartland of French haute cuisine — Paul Bocuse opened his eponymous three-star in Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or just north of the city in the 1960s and set the template for a generation of chefs. More Michelin stars per capita than any other French city. In between, the covered food hall Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse is the essential stop for cheese, charcuterie and the city's famous pralines roses.