From May to September, the Quai de la Douane waterfront hosts a series of temporary outdoor bars and guinguettes — informal riverside establishments with tables on the water's edge, simple food, live music, and an atmosphere that bears no relation to Bordeaux's formal wine culture. This is where the city goes in the evenings when the weather is good.
The guinguettes change from year to year in exact location and name, but the format is consistent: deckchairs, rosé, the Garonne at dusk, and a mix of locals and visitors in roughly equal proportion. If you are in Bordeaux between May and September and the sun is out, walking the quay in the early evening will find you the right place.