Saint-Étienne-de-la-Cité

Older cathedral of Périgueux, half-destroyed in the Wars of Religion

Before Saint-Front took over, this Romanesque church was the cathedral of Périgueux. Built in the 11th and 12th centuries on a similar domed plan, it lost two of its original four bays to Huguenot demolition in 1577 and was demoted to parish status in 1669, leaving Saint-Front to claim the title.

What remains is calmer and far less restored than Saint-Front: two domes, a stone floor that dips with the centuries, and a sense of how the larger cathedral might have looked before Abadie's whitening of the stone. The walk between the two churches takes 10 minutes and shows you the shift from the Cité to the Puy-Saint-Front.

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