Périgueux is the administrative capital of the Dordogne, set on the banks of the river Isle. It is a town of two distinct histories: a Roman city whose ruins still punctuate the modern streets, and a medieval centre that grew up around one of the most distinctive cathedrals in France.
The Cathédrale Saint-Front, with its cluster of Byzantine domes, dominates the skyline and the old town below it. Its 19th-century restoration drew heavy criticism — too zealous, too white — but it remains a striking building and a focal point for the town's most pleasant streets. The sloping lanes and secluded squares around the cathedral, in the Puy-Saint-Front quarter, are full of restaurants, most of them serving duck in every conceivable form.
The market, held twice weekly and at its best on Saturdays, is one of the finest in the Dordogne. Local producers sell foie gras, walnuts, truffles in season, cured meats, and an extraordinary range of cheeses. On the Roman side, the Tower of Vesunna and the remains of les Arènes (an amphitheatre converted into a fortress during the Hundred Years' War) are worth seeking out. The Musée du Périgord houses an impressive archaeological collection, and the Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum sits over an excavated patrician house with access via raised wooden walkways through the dig.
The caves of Les Eyzies, including Le Grand Roc, are within easy day-trip reach to the southeast — the prehistoric carvings and natural rock formations provide an unforgettable glimpse into deep human history.