Cathedral of Saint-Lazare

Romanesque masterpiece with Europe's finest 12th-century carved tympanum

The Cathedral of Saint-Lazare contains one of the supreme achievements of Romanesque sculpture: the tympanum carved over the west portal around 1130 by a sculptor who signed it "Gislebertus hoc fecit" — Gislebertus made this. The Last Judgement scene is vast, expressively detailed and oddly moving: souls weighed in the balance, the damned hauled into hell, the saved rising in orderly rows, all rendered with a psychological intensity unusual for the period.

The capitals throughout the nave are equally remarkable — the Flight into Egypt, the Washing of the Feet, the Dream of the Magi — each carved with wit and precision. The original tympanum Eve, removed from the north portal in the 18th century, is now in the Musée Rolin across the square. Allow at least an hour inside the cathedral, more if you are interested in medieval art.

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The cathedral canons of the 18th century thought Gislebertus's Last Judgement tympanum was ugly and plastered it over — which paradoxically saved it from revolutionary vandalism and weather damage. When the plaster was removed in 1837, the sculpture was found in near-perfect condition. The signature "Gislebertus hoc fecit" (Gislebertus made this) scratched into the stone is one of the rare instances of a medieval artist signing their work.

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