Cathédrale Notre-Dame du Puy

Romanesque pilgrimage cathedral on a volcanic outcrop — starting point of the Camino

Notre-Dame du Puy is one of the great Romanesque cathedrals of France, and its position makes it unlike any other: you reach it by climbing 134 steps through a vaulted entrance passage built directly into the facade, emerging into the nave as if surfacing from the rock itself. The cathedral dates from the eleventh to twelfth centuries and has been a major pilgrimage destination since the Middle Ages, attracting pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostela on the Via Podiensis — the route from Le Puy across southern France to Spain.

The interior is Romanesque in structure but decorated with Byzantine-influenced mosaics and painted frescoes, giving it an atmosphere unlike the Gothic cathedrals further north. The polychrome facade, striped in dark volcanic stone and pale limestone, is extraordinary. The adjacent cloister (twelfth century) is beautiful and often quiet even when the cathedral itself is busy. Mass is still celebrated daily and pilgrims receive a blessing at the start of their Camino — many of them are here to walk, not just visit.

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The cathedral's Black Madonna — the Vierge Noire — is a thirteenth-century wooden statue that has been credited with countless miracles. Napoleon visited in 1805 and was sufficiently impressed to restore the cathedral after the damage of the Revolution. The statue was burned during the Revolution and the present one is a later copy, but the tradition of devotion has never broken.

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