Palace of the Kings of Majorca

13th-century Aragonese fortress-palace with a double chapel and views over the city

The Palace of the Kings of Majorca stands on a hill above the old centre of Perpignan, enclosed within the later Vauban-era bastions that make approaching it feel like entering a fortress-within-a-fortress. The Vauban fortifications are from the 17th century; the palace inside them is 400 years older, a handsome 13th-century structure arranged around a central courtyard. The architectural highlight is the double chapel: the upper chapel built in Gothic, the lower in Romanesque, one sitting directly above the other in a manner that is unusual for the period and region. The great tower at the corner offers a panorama over the city rooftops and, on clear days, south to the Pyrenees and east to the sea.

The palace is not crammed with furnishings — most interiors are largely bare — but the architecture is strong enough to carry the visit without them. The courtyard, the gallery running around it, and the views from the terraces are the reward for the uphill walk. Combined with the time spent crossing the Vauban fortifications outside, allow about 90 minutes at a comfortable pace. The morning light falls well on the courtyard; afternoons can be very hot in summer and the stone retains the heat.

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The palace was built between 1276 and 1309 for the Kings of Majorca, who also ruled Perpignan and Montpellier as part of their short-lived Mediterranean kingdom. When Aragon absorbed Majorca in 1344, the palace became a royal residence; after France took Roussillon in 1659, Vauban enclosed the whole hill inside his characteristic star-fort bastions — which is why the entrance involves crossing an eerily empty moat and walking through fortress walls before you even see the medieval palace.

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