A tiny, chef-beloved bistrot on a quiet Belleville side street, run for decades by Argentine cook Raquel Carena and her partner Philippe Pinoteau. The cooking is precise, generous, and seasonal — offal, slow-braised meats, perfect vegetables — and the wine list was championing natural wine long before it was fashionable.
Chefs from across Paris eat here on their days off, which tells you most of what you need to know. It is small and popular, so reserve.