A defiantly old-school bistrot at the top of the Belleville hill, near the entrance to the Parc de Belleville. The food is honest, traditional French — terrines, andouillette, steak — but the real draw is the atmosphere on the evenings when an accordionist plays and the room sings along to French chanson.
It is touristy in the best sense: a slice of the working-class, song-loving Belleville of Piaf and Maurice Chevalier that has all but vanished elsewhere. Book ahead for the music nights.