Place d'Albertas

An intimate cobbled square with a central fountain and curious carved balconies

Address Place d'Albertas, 13100 Aix-en-Provence

A small cobbled square just off Rue Espariat, with a single fountain in the middle and four identical eighteenth-century facades around it. Place d'Albertas is one of the prettiest stops in the old town, and on warm evenings it fills with the sound of buskers — the acoustics are surprisingly good and the chamber-music programme of the summer Aix festival sometimes uses it as a stage.

Come at sunset, sit on the rim of the fountain, and look up at the balconies. The wrought-iron details are absurdly elaborate and include a row of phallic carvings that the original owner thought funny. The whole square is two minutes' walk from the Cours Mirabeau but feels like a different city.

things to do sight architecture
A story
The Marquis d'Albertas had the square carved out in 1745 so that his town house would have a worthy view, but the buildings opposite were only ever facades — a bit of theatrical scenery for the marquis to look at from his windows. Look up at the wrought-iron balconies and you will spot a row of fairly unmistakable phallic carvings, an eighteenth-century joke that no one has bothered to remove.