Aix is a city built around art and the good life. Cezanne painted here for decades, and the Atelier Cezanne and Musee Granet between them tell most of his story. Between museum visits, the tree-lined boulevards of the Cours Mirabeau and the elegant squares of the Mazarin quarter reward aimless wandering, and a half-day excursion to the slopes of Mont Sainte-Victoire turns Cezanne's canvases into the landscape itself.