Place des Cardeurs is the late-night heart of Aix — a long pedestrian square behind the Hotel de Ville, fringed with the terraces of a dozen bistros, bars, and pizza joints. The whole strip glows on warm evenings with heaters, candles, and the smell of grilled meat.
The food is variable, the prices are reasonable, and the atmosphere is the point. Pick a spot, order a glass of Provencal rose, and let the place fill up around you. Quieter at lunch, lively by eight, packed by ten.