Bagrati Cathedral

The Cathedral of the Dormition — universally called Bagrati Cathedral after the Georgian royal dynasty that built it — sits on a hilltop above the Rioni River and is the dominant landmark of Kutaisi. Completed in 1003 under Bagrat III during the golden age of Georgian unification, it represents the peak of medieval Georgian ecclesiastical architecture: a cruciform plan beneath a high drum and dome, with carved stone ornament of extraordinary quality on the portals and blind arcading.

The view from the hill is as good as the cathedral itself. The terrace in front of the west facade looks out over the city and the Rioni valley, with the green ridges of the Caucasus foothills visible on clear days. The interior, largely restored, holds regular Orthodox services; visitors are welcome outside service times but should dress modestly.

The cathedral is about 20 minutes' walk uphill from the city centre, or accessible by minibus. The path passes through a pleasant residential quarter with good views back over the rooftops.

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The cathedral was blown up by the Ottomans in 1691 to prevent it being used as a fortress. For three centuries it stood as a magnificent ruin on its hilltop — a shell of its 11th-century self. Reconstruction began in 2003 and was completed in 2012, a decision that proved so controversial it led UNESCO to remove the site from its World Heritage List for a period, citing damage to its authenticity. The debate still divides Georgian architectural historians.

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