In 1903, a printing press was smuggled into Tbilisi in pieces and installed in a secret basement beneath a carpenter's workshop. For two years it churned out Bolshevik propaganda — including copies of Lenin's Iskra newspaper — under the noses of the tsarist secret police. The young Joseph Stalin was closely involved in the operation.
The building on Kamo Street (now Stalin Square) has been preserved as a museum, with the original underground press still in place. The space is cramped and atmospheric — a genuine piece of revolutionary history, not a reconstruction. The exhibits in the upper floors contextualise the Bolshevik underground in Tiflis and Stalin's role in it. Not many tourists make it here, which makes it all the more interesting.