The Marktplatz is where the lower town breathes. It is large by the standards of a town this size, ringed by half-timbered and stone facades, and the Renaissance town hall on the northern side gives it a formal anchor. On market days it fills with stalls; the rest of the time it is a good place to get your bearings before heading into the side streets.
The surrounding lanes reward wandering. The streets radiating off the square — particularly toward the Schlossberg — are lined with timber-frame houses in various states of photogenic decay and careful restoration. Pick any alley heading uphill and you will end up somewhere worth seeing.