A dependable taverna on the main pedestrian street in Chora, where the menu follows the catch rather than a fixed list. The grilled octopus — dried in the sun and charred over charcoal — is the thing to order, along with a plate of the island's own vithalí cheese. The fish soup is made fresh each morning. Tables spill out onto the stone lane and the prices are honest for a town catering to Athenian visitors.