A waterfront fish taverna at the bottom of the steps leading down from Chora's main square toward the old port. The location alone would be enough — bare rock, crashing waves, and the Tourlitis Lighthouse offshore — but the food earns its place. Whole grilled fish priced by weight, garlic-dressed greens from the hillside villages, and a sharp local white wine poured in straight-sided glasses. Go at lunch when the light is best.