Klimataria is one of the great surviving traditional tavernas of central Athens, occupying a small square in Psiri behind the Monastiraki flea market. The food is the old roster of Greek home cooking — grilled meats, baked fish, baked vegetables, plenty of small mezedes — and the live music nightly is rebetiko, the urban bouzouki music that emerged from Asia Minor refugees in the early 20th century.
Tables fill late and the music carries on until close. Prices are reasonable for what you get, and a good night out with several people sharing dishes is one of the more memorable evenings to be had in central Athens. Reservations advisable on Fridays and Saturdays.