Cephalonia has its own strong food identity, and Argostoli is the best place on the island to eat it. The regional speciality is kreatopita — a meat pie made with a filling of mixed meats, rice, and spices sealed in flaky pastry. Unlike the spinach- or cheese-filled pies more common elsewhere in Greece, kreatopita is substantial enough to be a full meal. Look for it at bakeries and traditional tavernas rather than tourist restaurants.
The island's wine is Robola, a dry white made from a grape variety grown only in Cephalonia. It's crisp and slightly citrusy, excellent with fish, and criminally underknown outside Greece. Order it by the carafe at any taverna; it's the right choice for almost everything on the menu.
Patsouras — a long-established taverna on the waterfront esplanade, serving grilled octopus, fresh fish, and the full range of Cephalonian dishes. The octopus hung to dry outside is a reliable indicator of quality. Booking ahead in August is advisable.
To Arhontiko — a small traditional restaurant in the central streets, away from the waterfront, where the local kreatopita and other Cephalonian pies are done particularly well. Fills up with Greek families at lunch; arrive early or late.
Kafeneion tou Kyriakoulis — an old-fashioned coffee house near the main square where Argostoli's older generation gather in the mornings. Good Greek coffee, loukoumades (fried dough balls with honey), and a sense of how the town works before the tourists are up.