Avli (meaning "courtyard") is Rethimno's most celebrated restaurant, set in a 15th-century Venetian building in the old town with a garden courtyard overhung with bougainvillea and jasmine. The cooking is high-end Cretan — local ingredients prepared with care and sophistication rather than the heavy tourism-facing interpretation common in harbour restaurants. Snails, lamb from the mountains, fresh fish, and excellent local cheeses and olive oil feature throughout the menu.
The restaurant is expensive by Cretan standards but reasonable by European ones. Book in advance in high season. The wine list focuses on Cretan producers and is well chosen. The setting alone is worth the price of a meal.