The side streets around Larissa's old Turkish bazaar area — running between Frourio Hill and the central square — concentrate the city's best traditional tavernas. These are family-run places with grilled meats, mezedes, and Thessalian wine at prices well below what you would pay in Athens. The lamb and pork grills are consistently good, as are the salads made with local feta. Many of the tavernas have outdoor seating in the narrow lanes.
Look for places with handwritten menus and local clientele rather than the more polished restaurants facing the main square. Dinner starts late by northern European standards — most places don't fill up until 9pm — and extends well past midnight on weekends. A full mezedes spread for two people with wine typically costs 25–35 euros.