Four tavernas share the small square at Vourliotes under enormous plane trees, and they are all reliable; the one on the south side, To Iliovasilema, has slightly the best home cooking — slow-baked goat stifado, briam (a roasted-vegetable casserole), fresh-pressed olive oil from the village. The owners speak some English and German.
The setting matters as much as the food: the leaves dapple the light, the village cats slope between tables, and the bell of the church next door marks the hour. Order a small jug of the family's white Muscat to go with lunch.