At the far end of the bus route, beside the lagoon at Koukounaries, this shaded taverna is a good reason to arrive at the beach early and stay late. The menu runs through the standard Greek roster — grilled fish, lamb chops, horiatiki, tzatziki — and does all of it well. The setting under the stone pines, with the lagoon on one side and the sea on the other, makes a simple lunch feel considerably grander than it is.