A traditional taverna in Thassos Town with a straightforward menu built around whatever came off the boats that morning: grilled octopus, sea bream baked in salt, red mullet fried whole, mussels in white wine. The kitchen does not complicate things unnecessarily, which is exactly the right approach when the fish is this fresh. The island's own white wine — dry, slightly mineral — is the only sensible accompaniment.
The waterfront tables at sunset are one of the classic Thassos Town experiences and get booked up in high season; arrive early or be prepared to wait. Inside is pleasant enough but the whole point is eating outside with the port in front of you and the lights of Kavala visible across the water. Like most good Greek tavernas, Simi rewards returning visitors who order what the waiter suggests rather than what the menu photographs make look easiest.