Inis Mór rewards people who move slowly through it. The island's nine miles contain more prehistoric and early Christian archaeology than almost anywhere in Ireland — stone forts, oratories, holy wells, and ruined churches layered across a limestone landscape that has remained largely unchanged for two thousand years. Dún Aonghasa on the cliff edge is the centrepiece, but the island gives generously to anyone who takes the time to find the smaller sites.