The main square of Ferrara is one of the liveliest in Emilia-Romagna — not because of anything remarkable in its design, but because the Ferrarese actually use it. The cathedral's Romanesque facade closes the eastern end; the Palazzo Municipale, with its bronze Este statues, faces it from the west; and the cafés that line the square fill with cyclists and pedestrians throughout the day.
The loggia of the merchants along the south flank of the cathedral is worth stopping at: a covered arcade at street level, used in the medieval period for commercial exchange and now a covered passageway used by everyone. The square itself is the best orientation point in the city — everything major in Ferrara is within easy walking distance from here.