The Good Food Guide's deep-dive into Testaccio as the home of quinto quarto — the fifth quarter of the animal, the offal and offcuts that slaughterhouse workers were paid in kind. The piece explains why Rome's most celebrated pasta dishes (cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana, gricia) emerged from poverty cooking, and how the trattorias of Testaccio became the keepers of that tradition while most of Rome modernised. More cultural context than practical itinerary, but that context makes the actual restaurants make sense. Read this before eating at Felice or Checchino.