Up in Montemarcello, fifteen minutes by car from the seafront, this trattoria in a stone-floored room is where locals from Tellaro and Lerici go when they want a real meal at a reasonable price. The menu changes with the season but always leans on the gulf: anchovies marinated and fried, mesciua (a chickpea, bean and farro soup from La Spezia), and rabbit with olives.
The terrace looks out over the Magra valley to the Apennines. Lunch on a clear day is one of the best you can have on this stretch of coast.