Trattoria Madonnina traces its history back to 1722, and locals still argue it's the oldest trattoria in Milan. It occupies a case di ringhiera building — one of the old balcony tenements typical of the Navigli's side streets — with a covered outdoor pergola that has been the setting for generations of long, unhurried lunches. In 2023 a new young owner took over the kitchen, keeping the historic character of the place while refreshing the menu.
The cooking sticks to Milanese tradition: cotoletta, risotto, and other dishes built around long-running family recipes rather than trends. It sits a short walk south of the main canal action, making it a good choice for travellers who want the Navigli's old working-class atmosphere without the crowds right on the towpath. Closed Sundays, and worth booking for dinner.