Maria Grammatico Pasticceria

Maria Grammatico's pasticceria on Via Vittorio Emanuele is the most famous shop in Erice and one of the best pastry shops in western Sicily. The specialities are almond-based: genovesi (lemon cream-filled pastry shells), buccellati (fig and nut pastries), and the extraordinary marzipan fruits — crafted into perfect miniature replicas of Sicilian produce that are almost too beautiful to eat.

The queue moves quickly despite the crowds, and the staff are efficient. Buy a bag of mixed pastries to eat immediately on the street — some varieties travel well, others do not. The shop opens early and sells out of certain items before noon in peak season.

eating out market
A story
Maria Grammatico spent her childhood in the convent of San Carlo in Erice, where the nuns made elaborate almond pastries to sell for income. When the convent closed in the 1960s, she apprenticed herself to the last surviving nun who knew the recipes and eventually opened her own shop in 1963. The book "Bitter Almonds" by Mary Taylor Simeti tells her story.