Il Gallo e l'Innamorata is a tight, low-ceilinged osteria a couple of streets back from the cathedral, serving a short and changing menu of Sicilian dishes — busiate with pesto trapanese, swordfish with capers and almonds, tuna tartare with citrus. The wine list leans heavily on Marsala and the surrounding hills.
Reservations are essential for dinner. The kitchen does a good job for the price; pace yourself through the antipasti or you will run out of room.