Eating Out

Siracusa eats well. Ortigia's restaurants are concentrated around the Piazza del Duomo and in the streets south of it, with quality ranging from excellent to tourist-oriented mediocrity. The fish market near the Temple of Apollo provides the raw material: swordfish, sea bream, octopus, and the oily local tuna are the things to order. Pasta alla Norma — with fried aubergine, tomato, and ricotta salata — is the Sicilian standby that is hard to mess up. The local street food is excellent: arancini, panelle (chickpea fritters), and granita served with brioche for breakfast.

Avoid restaurants with laminated menus in multiple languages directly facing tourist sights. The good places are typically a block or two away, open for lunch and dinner on a schedule that respects the traditional Italian meal pattern (lunch from 1pm, dinner from 8pm), and packed with locals at both meals.