Lucca has a distinct local cuisine that is worth seeking out. Tordelli lucchesi — large meat-stuffed pasta parcels served in a rich ragù — is the city's signature first course, unmistakably local and excellent in the restaurants around the centro storico. Buccellato, a sweet ring-shaped bread with anise and raisins, is sold in bakeries throughout the city and makes a good mid-morning snack. The local olive oil — pressed in the hills immediately south of the city — is among Italy's finest: pale gold, peppery, and sold in every alimentari and supermarket.
For eating, the best options cluster around Piazza San Michele and the streets running east toward the Anfiteatro. Avoid the obvious tourist traps on Piazza Napoleone and look instead for the osterie a few streets back from the main squares, where the clientele is mostly local.