☰Caffè Pedrocchi

Opened in 1831 and once famous for never closing — hence its nickname, "the café without doors." The neoclassical ground floor is still a working café; the upper floors, now a museum, are decorated in wildly eclectic styles (Egyptian, Greek, Renaissance). During the Risorgimento, students launched an uprising from here in 1848. Today it is a good place for an espresso in handsome surroundings, though the prices reflect the history.